Article
by Fritz Christoph

Selected from the periodical "Unser Pommerland"
9. Annual volume 1924 - booklet 4/5

Who was on the mole heading of Rügenwaldermünde, will probably have a view land inward and surely will have seen first, on airy height, the small church of the close farmer village Zizow, an old landmark for Fishermen and Sailors. The range of hills, on which it is situated, drops after the sea too in the so-called Darlowberg very steeply. Between this steep rock slope and the village Zizow is to have confessed once, into grey prehistoric times, the old Slavic castle Dirlow, from which also the establishment of the Münde, how the place is to be called here for the sake of the shortness, took place.

The Castilian of Dirlow let establish to the mouth of the River Wipper where other dealer came to exchange their goods for the raw materials of the Slavics, a jug (taberna), in order to be able to raise controls and downward gradients. The house still changed with other rights by the 1327 closed contract between Jasco of Zwenzo and Rügenwalde for 213 Marks into the possession of the city. He now had an interest in the place, which had developed favourably in the meantime and had adjusted to the trade, and created there a fixed dam by the swampy meadow area. At that time, existed at all still open connections between the River Wipper and Lake Vitte on the one hand (Lytow) and the River Wipper and Lake Buckow on the other hand (Trah), so that the Münde was completely cut off from the fixed country. These two navigable water ways existed up to their final sand still to the extent of the 18th century.

If now the German city Rügenwalde rose, it owed it apart from the fertility of the close landscape and silting to the port on the Münde. Already early developed a bulwark, which facilitated a loading and unloading of the ships, and at both sides of the river expanded the wood yards, depots and silos, which partially still stand today.The export consists in the main wood, grain and canvas. In its development the port unfortunately unfavourably influenced by the continuing sand silting of its entry, which was caused by migration of the sand due to the constant coastal flow from the west to the east. They sought to remedy this evil status already soon by the building of moles, but always in vain.

Therefore, later the large cure prince, to who the development of the port was really important, let shift the mouth of the river Wipper somewhat after the west and also the new delta by moles to protect. By it, the danger was not even eliminated, also not, when later the state, which had transferred 1840 the sea port to the mouth of the Wipper, these moles corrected and in the form extended, how it shows the old west mole with the nebula bell still today. Only the building of the large moles (in the west 497.5 m, in the east 240 m long) in the year's 1873-1879 therein created change. At that time, the port in its current shape with the straight-put and deepened run of the "Unterwipper" up to the inland port in the proximity of the city rose. The fact that this port here and not, as first designs planned it, on which Münde was created, is to be had apart from the desires of the traders, the port close of the city, on the difficulties of the railway construction up to Münde to lead back. On the Münde developed in the future the mechanisms for the protection of a secured navigation, at the east mole the pilot house and in the proximity of the passage by the west dune the station for the rescue of shipwrecked ones.

The inhabitants of the Münde were already fishermen and skipper, free people, which had to pay a building-tax to the city and were under the urban jurisdiction. They did not possess a field Mark. They were divided in seven co-operatives and had against Money the pilots for in- and outrunning ships to place, had to help load and unloading of the charges and had to open the bridge which was built over the river Wipper in the year 1684. The supervision over the port and the ship operation exercised, as a representative of the city, a supervisor (Vogt), which lived in the public house, where once a taberna confessed (Berndts Restaurant). As supervisory authority of the port the city ordered gentlemen, one councilman and two dealers, who were annually new selected. They were the first court instance of the Münde, administered the port incomes and carried first of all providing for the maintenance of the port. That was a very hard function because still storm and war restrained its development, besides the sand silting already mentioned.


Rügenwaldermünde: Evening at the moles

Each century had its storm tides, which everything would go to specify too far. Their consequences were always the same: the harbour facilities were destroyed and the Münde partly inundated and devastated. Mostly the beach at the eastern side had to suffer, from which a piece after the other one disappeared. Still in the twenties of the last century protected a high dune of 2.5 m height the East part of the village, which would be endangered already, if not the state had built a concrete layer dam, to break the force of the waves. Those already 1826, for this purpose, built a 210 m long stone barrier proved in addition as imperfect. Yes, it had given itself to detect as a danger for the beach because it prevented the back-flow of the overcome water and forced it to flow eastward off. Thus the beach was away-rinsed directly behind the east mole. That since the last decades the whole east beach back-yields more and more, is the disadvantage of the like barriers ("Buhnen") working long moles. They force the sand moving to the East, to storing and extend the beach at the west side. On the other hand however they prevent by the fact that the east laterally diverting sand is replaced. Here they are thus guilty at the reduction of the north dune.
Also the times of war are not passed without leaving marks. In the Thirty Years' War the imperial commander in Kolberg left in the year 1630 before he withdrew the local crew, the bulwarks in the port destroy and let the port entrance by stone crates clog. This damage was however fast eliminated. It must be stressed seriously, trade and building of ships flowered in the following years despite the war efficiently up, however to be later completely insignificantly, particularly at the times of war between Brandenburg and Sweden. From this time to be earned still mentioned, that in the landing of the "Large Cure Prince" on the island Rügen also Münder Fishermen were involved, with three boats lost. Again the port was destroyed by the Russians in the Seven Year' War, and only in the year 1772 it experienced a thorough re-creation by king Friedrich "The Large". Two decades later the mouth oft the River Wipper was fastened because of "an invasion which can be feared by the English fleet". To both Sides developed digging, which were reinforced with twelve cannons. At the fameful defence Kolbergs took the Münder Fishermen to in as much fame fully proportion as they often brought "Ranzionierte" on their boats on the fortress. In the following time of the continental barrier they drove smuggling although awake ships were stationed at the pomeranian coast.

It is now in above done that the Münde is an old harbour, then now is to be said why it earns the call of an old bathing resort. Yes, it must be stressed to the fame: It is Prussia's oldest Baltic Sea bath. On 22 July 1914 it could celebrate the day of its hundred-year existence. The establishment took place in a hard time, and that it occurred nevertheless, is the merit of the physician Dr. Georg Büttner, which had established itself 1809 in Rügenwaldermünde. He forms the plan to create a seaside resort soon, how it has already existed in Doberan in Mecklenburg since 1793, but he could not bring it to the execution because his funds were not enough in addition. City and state, which he asked for support, did not lock for the thought of the usefulness of the bath, but they were even too much in distress, in order to be able to help. Thus nothing would probably have become from it, even if there were not a changing of the allocation of the castles "Vorwerk" in this time in the city (1813). Thus some buildings became unnecessarily, also a large grain barn, over their hiring Dr. Büttner the government urgent and not in vain asked. From this the bath house developed at the workstation on the east bank, given by the city, where today Köhlers "Friedrich-Wilhelm"-bath is. It contained eight cells with mechanisms for warm baths beside a Restaurant, a billiard and the Dwelling of the economist at the eastern side. For cold baths in the sea was carried also for concern. For the taking on and off clothing at the beach a little house with, still today, the usual mechanism was established. A still received bathing regulations regulated the operation, by the management found Dr. Büttner in the bath-servant Johann Ehlert a faithful and reliable assistant, who had in the wars of liberation in Russia eleven injuries received. The recent enterprise enjoyed first only an increase of bathers from the city and of them closer environment, but the number of the visitors rose from year to year that the eight cells did not go no longer for their accommodation and on the request of the management by the citizens and Fishermen could dwellings supply. Although the bath developed so favourably, it brought to its founder nothing as expenses and annoyance, so that he assumed 1819 gladly a call as "Kreisphysikus" to Sprottau,

although his whole fortune - which cost building the bath 4524 Taler - had to remain in the enterprise. Nobody wanted to buy it, also the city not, to which he offered it for 3600 Taler. It came only later to the auction into other hands, and now Dr. Büttner remained to the family, in the meantime hi died, not much from the once spent capital. These conditions did not remain naturally without influence on the bath, which had to fight for many years with the largest difficulties. They were only recovered when the bath servant Ehlert already specified acquired it. It succeeded to his active activity to increase the number of the bathers gradually and create before the house by tree systems a promenade. Well known is he first of all by the fact that he saved the later king Friedrich William IV., who bathed here occasionally on an inspection tour in the sea on 25 June 1822 from mortal danger. For memory of it the current building - the first burned down before approximately 50 years - carries a commemorative tablet and the name Friedrich-William-Bad.

Die Münde enjoyed now in the future of an ever stronger attendance of bathers, whose grew importantly, when due to the initialisation Rügenwalder Railway even from more distant areas foreigner could come. In the meantime closely to the east mole the "Strandschloß" and another warm bath had developed, and at the beautiful west beach created the local administration, those for the elevation of traffic all necessary done, a beautiful family bath. The inhabitants adjusted long after possibility to the tourism, so that far over 1000 bathers each summer can find accommodation here. The city also contributed substantially to its promotion by creation of beautiful ways and places in the beach wood, which frame the village from both sides. Certainly, the village in its development does not have kept pace with other villages at the Baltic Sea, which became many later after its sea baths, but everyone, which knows themselves too and wants recovery to find, is recommended it.

Also to beautiful surroundings does not miss the Münde. There is the close city, with its art monuments, to which beautiful ways lead. That foot-rise beside the Chaussee is partially shaded by quite old trees, whose tousles crowns such as weather vanes to the east wise and so that it instructs to everyone that the west hoist prevail here. For the protection against it the city created a park between the road and the Wipper, which wants to develop on the damp background however not quite. In windless weather the Treidelsteig, which accompanies the lower wipper east lateral, offers a beautiful walk. For longer migrations beautiful targets are at the beach. On a high surface in the east, is Jereshöft in a distance of 15 km. Its beautiful steep coast, which offers pretty pictures in individual places with thorny brush. The panorama of the lighthouse, which us on one hand the sea shows, is beautiful, which operates untiringly on the destruction of the coast, and the other side lets see a beautiful panorama with heights and valleys, meadows and fields, lakes and forests, on which in the east the Salesker shifting sand dunes appear. Jereshöft also became a bathing resort, which promises real recovery. That can be said also from the two fishing villages Neuwasser and Damkerort, which are applicable as targets of a west migration. There are still miracle-pretty farmsteads in the old building method and magnificent native Fisherman shapes too.

Many non-initiated interpret the names Rügenwaldermünde in quiet compartmentation that they want to detect it as a section, to a certain extent a suburb, of the city Rügenwalde. Therefore, still some words are said about the relationship of both, the community to each other to end the conclusion. The Münde has its independent administration, only in police regard it is subordinated to the city. This status often gave reason to unpleasant misunderstandings. There it was not also missing at voices, the one union to a stronger more efficient municipality than the most favourable solution regarded. If it is quite unfortunate, if the there-directing requests of the Münde before 25 years no consideration found, because somewhat the city narrow-minded in this affair feared too large a load of its budget. It is still distressing that the discussion led with much hope for success had to be aborted in the past year without result. Perhaps comes sooner or later the day, which brings an agreement to the benediction for both sections.